1. High Bust: This measurement is taken without a bra

2. Full Bust: This measurement is taken with a bra (preferably one that’ll be worn with the finished garment)

• What if my full bust measurement is not listed under my high bust measurement?

A full bust adjustment (FBA) or small bust adjustment (SBA) may be needed. In order for the shoulders to fit correctly, it’s strongly recommended to make this adjustment rather than sizing up or down.

• What if my high bust measurement is larger than my full bust or I’m in between sizes?

If your high bust is larger than your full bust, select an A cup size based on your high bust measurement and make a mockup to see if an FBA is needed. If you’re in between any size (not just the bust), refer to the pattern’s Finished Garment Measurement Chart to see if you should size up or down.

• What size should I choose with a bilateral mastectomy?

There are several fitting adjustments available for those sewing with bilateral mastectomies in mind. One suggestion is to substitute the chest measurement for the high bust measurement and to remove the darts through the SBA process. An SBA can also be used if darts are desired. Afterwards, other fit adjustments can be made, such as wide or narrow shoulder adjustments or raising the neckline if needed.

Standing vs. Sitting Measurements for Hips and Waist

Body measurements change when sitting or standing. For fitted garments without a lot of room for movement, it’s best to measure the hips and waist while sitting. For looser garments with a greater amount of ease, these measurements should be taken while standing.

Bicep

This measurement is taken at the widest part of the upper arm. JMD patterns offer both a standard and full bicep option. This measurement can also be graded between sizes.

Making a Toile/Mockup

As all bodies are unique, most people will find that they need to make some adjustments to a sewing pattern to achieve the best fit. A toile, muslin, or mockup is typically made of cheap fabric to perfect the fit before cutting into the fashion fabric. While the mockup material doesn’t have to possess the same fiber content as the fashion fabric, it’s important that it possesses a similar weight and drape. Additionally, a knit material should be used for knits while a woven fabric should be used for wovens. Once these guidelines are met, any type of affordable fabric can be used! Thrifted sheets, op-shop fabrics, and bargain bin finds all work well.

Pattern Combinations and Grading

Many JMD patterns are designed with interchangeable pieces in mind, such as the sleeves, bodice, and skirts. Unless otherwise mentioned, the grading is compatible for interchangeable patterns.

What are some of the types of adjustments that may be found in the Fitting Guides?

(This list is subject to change and individual fitting guides may vary)

• Bust Adjustments

Moving the Bust Apex, Adjusting darts, Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)

• Shoulder Adjustments

Wide Shoulder Adjustment, Narrow Shoulder Adjustment

• Bicep Adjustments

Grading Between Bicep Sizes, Full Bicep Adjustment, Small Bicep Adjustment

• Back and Neckline Adjustments

Swayback Adjustment, Broad and Narrow Back Adjustments, Adjusting Neckline Height