Meet the Dress Forms
Each size range is drafted separately (I don’t grade a size 0 up to a 32!) and tested with the help of my dress forms, Marian and Guinevere.
Marian
Marian is a self-made dress form set near the middle of her size range (6). Her measurements are:
Bust: 36in/91.5cm
Waist: 30in/76cm
Hip: 40in/101.5cm
(Standard) Bicep: 11.5in/29cm
Her bust is drafted to a B sewing cup (this means that there is a 2in/5cm difference between the high bust and full bust and does NOT necessarily translate to a bra cup size)
While sewing cup sizes A-G/H are included in this range, Instructions on how to add a small bust adjustment and full bust adjustment are provided in each pattern with cup sizes as well.
Guinevere
Guinevere is a self-made plus-size dress form originally set to the middle of her size range (22). Her original measurements were:
Bust: 50in/127cm
Waist: 44in/111.5cm
Hip: 54in/137cm
(Standard) Bicep: 16.25in/41cm
Her bust is drafted to a C sewing cup (this means that there is a 3in/7.6cm difference between the high bust and full bust and does NOT necessarily translate to a bra cup size). (The original 22C size is pictured above).
The Guinevere base blocks and patterns are still drafted to and graded from a size 22 for accuracy. However, I’ve since adjusted the Guinevere dress form to size 18C for the purpose of samples and fit checks.
Her current 18C measurements are:
Bust: 46in/116.8cm
Waist: 41in/104.1cm
Hips: 50in/127cm
(Standard) Bicep: 15in/38.1cm
While sewing cup sizes A-G/H are included in this range, Instructions on how to add a small bust adjustment and full bust adjustment are provided in each pattern with cup sizes as well.
Improving Fit
While no body is the same, I wanted to make more realistic dress-forms to work with rather than using an XS form that was merely expanded proportionally.
Some additions to Guinevere’s shape include a rounded tummy and swayback.
Marian’s shape also includes a rounded tummy.
I used Bootstrap Fashion’s custom fit dress form patterns to construct Guinevere and Marian, as well as their add-on arms, and would definitely recommend them! (I’m not an affiliate).