Vintage Look, Modern Fit

Many of my patterns are closely inspired by true vintage and antique garments and often incorporate vintage construction techniques without compromising on modern fit. As our bodies are all unique, most people do need to make some adjustments to a pattern for best fit. An illustrated fitting guide containing some common fit adjustments is also included with most E-Patterns.

While I do try to stay close to the original vintage style lines, most of my patterns are drafted to be worn on a modern figure without the need for vintage shapewear. (If you do prefer to wear a girdle or bullet bra, instructions are included in JMD’s dress pattern fitting guides on how to move the bust apex and darts).

About My Pattern Production:

I draft, true, and grade my patterns using a professional fashion-specific CAD software for accuracy and use a separate sloper for each size range for improved fit. Depending on the pattern, draping may be used alongside flat patternmaking techniques during pattern development. Trueing seams and assessing fit occurs throughout the pattern drafting and testing process. (Patterns that are also tested through a pattern testing call will be noted).

JMD patterns are graded (sized up and down only within each range) using grade rules derived from industry best-practices, which means that proportions are kept in mind when increasing or decreasing size. Fit, comfort, and a flattering final product are all considerations taken seriously throughout the entire process.

• JMD patterns are not graded reproductions of another company’s vintage sewing patterns unless otherwise noted*

• JMD patterns are not made by taking tracings of or cutting apart vintage or antique clothing- I draft and apply inspiration style lines to my own separate blocks

• JMD patterns are not graded up from a size 0 to a 32

*These patterns will be clearly noted and based off of vintage and antique patterns within the public domain.

My interest in fashion history, historical costuming, and sewing began over 12 years ago when I made an 1860s ballgown (including a hoopskirt, chemise, and corset!) while I was in high school. Although I’ve made several projects since then, there is always something new to learn about sewing and I enjoy growing and developing my skills! Unless otherwise noted, I sew my E-Pattern cover samples myself.

I put a significant amount of time, work, research, and study into my patternmaking and development and in developing both of my size ranges. I did not pursue a fashion degree; however, I do utilize several fashion industry textbooks and resources (among others) and constantly work towards improving my craft and ensuring quality through frequent research and testing. A link to my resource list can be found here.

Plus-Size Patternmaking

It is my firm belief that plus-size patternmaking is not inherently more difficult than what is traditionally referred to as ‘straight-size’ patternmaking, which is often considered to be an XS-XL. However, it is true that there are less resources available on plus-size patternmaking, which can make it challenging. After a lot of research, study, and testing for both of my size-ranges, some steps that JMD has taken to be more size-inclusive includes:

• Working from a plus-size friendly block (base pattern) for sizes 14-32, based on my custom-sewn dress form, Guinevere

• Including Cup Sizes A-G/H

• When possible, including side closures

• Offering two bicep options

• Including a Fitting Guide with most E-Patterns featuring some common fit adjustments

• Incorporating pattern testing calls on a regular basis

With that said, I am always open to feedback for both size-ranges. I may not always be able to incorporate all feedback, but I do genuinely want to be as size-inclusive as possible, which to me means incorporating fit, comfort, and interesting designs equally across both size-ranges.

Please feel free to contact me at jmd@joseonmoderndesigns.com if you have any suggestions, feedback, or concerns

Photo Credit: © 2024 Marc A. Koonin